Introduction - June 19, 2017

The Breakdown
Last summer, after having walked all five hundred miles from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, to Santiago, Spain (the Camino de Santiago), I walked three extra days out to Finisterre on the Atlantic coast. It was while I was soaking up the sunsets with my partner, Christina, that I began thinking about the North American view of the ocean...

Box View
I am now comfortably sitting at the Seattle-Tacoma Airport typing a few words into my phone, the door to adventure open again.Heading into this trip, I've experienced a hurricane of projects, mostly school related. This year, I took on the challenge of planning two major backpacking trips for all interested eighth grade students. Seventy fourteen year olds challenged themselves to take the five-day, four-night "Shipwreck Coast" hike in Olympic National Park. I ran two trips, taking only one week in between. Eighth grade staff followed this trip up with three days, two nights at Fort Casey.

With grades, classroom cleanup and the necessity of renewing my teaching certificate, there was little time to break down my bike and throw my gear together. I find it miraculous that I am here at this moment of time.

Boxes and Bags (Bound for Bar Harbor)
I put out a message for a Warm Showers host in Bar Harbor, Maine. No response. I will be sleeping (hopefully) on the airplane tonight on my flight to Boston. My plan is to cycle at least as far as Washington, D. C. Unfortunately / fortunately I have no place to stay Tuesday night or thereafter.

I do have a tent.

In Transit – June 20, 2017

Three Hours of Peace
The flight to Boston was uneventful. I slept a short while, but mainly tossed and turned. Previous to the trip, my mom presented me with a custom-sewn case for my inflatable pillow. It has a Seahawks print. That fact helped me rest easy.

In Boston, I found my transfer gate and moved to the rear row of seats (up against a wall). It wasn’t long before I started feeling drowsy. Luckily, I had my sleeping pad and bag in the carry-on pannier. I set up on the floor, wondering if an airline employee would wake me with a tone of disapproval. As luck would have it, I slumbered, unmolested, for three hours.

Grounded
At the end of that restful period, I awoke to a somewhat anxious female voice proclaim, over the announcement system, that my Pen Air flight to Bar Harbor had been canceled. After staggering to the gate desk, I inquired about the reason for cancellation. “Crew member injury” was the answer I received. I wondered if that was airline speak for “the majority of our employees bar hop in the evening.”

One Ticket to Paradise
At approximately 2:00 PM, a $200 Pen Air transportation voucher was pressed into my hand. I was told to redeem it in one year. This will be extremely difficult to do; the airline doesn’t fly anywhere that I could imagine going. One possibility would be to drive to Portland, Oregon, and fly to Eureka, CA. It’s difficult to understand why a struggling airline, looking to foster a satisfied base if customers, would issue play money. They safely could have offered us vouchers for ten thousand dollars.

The Long Haul
Two vans were summoned to drive us the five hours to Bar Harbor. The Pen Air people kindly placed all of our checked baggage in the rear of the vehicles. While in transit, I spoke at length with Mark Beede, a tennis coach for the University of Hawaii. He has recently published a book titled “From Go to Pro: Developing the Elite Tennis Player”. After speaking with him, it sounds like much of what he has written would apply to life in general.

A Survey of the Situation - Bar Harbor Airport
We pulled into the Bar Harbor airport at about eight o’clock in the evening. After witnessing me putting my bike together outside, I was invited into the well-lit, small-craft airport by a kind woman running the show. By nine o’clock I had my bike together and was pedaling away, fireflies lighting my way.

I crossed the bridge over to Mount Desert Island and began looking for a camping spot to rest for the night. After nearly choosing the lawn adjacent to the Witness’s “Kingdom Hall”, I free camped in a spot just inside a gated park road. The mosquitoes were out in force, so I set up post haste.

While writing a few daily notes, I heard the yipping of coyotes, a good sign. After they settled down, so did I.

Bar Harbor to Balsam Cove Campground, Maine – June 21, 2017

Buckled to Birch (Freecamp - Highway 3)
I woke around 6:30 AM and quickly beat it from my free camp. I was relatively close to Highway 3, but this wasn’t a factor due to my free fan (white noise) application on my iPhone. Christina turned me on to this technique on the Camino last summer. My life was forever changed.

Mosquito Trap (Reason #1 to Reject Bivy Sack)
I pedaled into Bar Harbor and found Jeannie’s Great Maine Breakfast, ordering their namesake meal. Decent. The major event at Jeannie’s was not the food; the power went out halfway through my breakfast. The rumor spread around the cafe that a tree had fallen on a power line. Knowing that I had limited opportunities to use a restroom, I pulled my headlamp out and proceeded into the darkened space. No problem.

Pre Outage
Aim... (Bar Harbor Overlook)
Bar Harbor Burying Ground
Leaving Bar Harbor, I entered the outskirts of Arcadia National Park. There is real beauty on Mount Desert Island. I stopped for awhile to contemplate still lakes showcasing beaver lodges. I hope to return.

Beaver Lodges - Arcadia National Park
After entering Ellsworth, I noticed that my rear tire was slowly losing pressure. As luck would have it, a half mile further brought me to Cadillac Mountain Sports. One of the mechanics quickly installed a new tube and fine tuned my rear derailleur and breaks. I did not catch his name, but this was a huge time saver.

It was after the town of Surry that I took highway 176 south instead of north. I’m generally headed south, but I should have paid better attention to the map. I ended up in the quaint town of Blue Hill, approximately ten miles off course. After gathering myself, I started pedaling (the only reasonable way to solve the problem). At about six o’clock, I found myself at the front desk of Balsam Cove Campground.

Mistake Metaphor
A hot shower does wonders for the beaten psyche. After toweling off, I was emboldened. Walking down to the Toddy Pond waterfront, I was again fueled by beauty.

Returning to my campsite, I grabbed my yoga mat and headed back to the beach; I had it in mind to do my practice on one of the docks. An older man, looking for solace with his fishing pole, had materialized on the middle dock while I was away. Walking down a different float, I asked if he would mind me stretching. My request was quite loud, and sound carries over water well; he heard me, but said nothing. I faced away from him, rolled out my mat and began the forty-minute routine. I was conscious that my posterior faced his direction. After striking several downward facing dog poses, he headed in the direction of his tent. I guess the fish stopped biting.

Balsam Cove Campground to Rockport, Maine – June 22, 2017

Ararat Farmstand
I experienced a shift in mentality today as I cycled approximately fifty miles; I’m moving through time and space too quickly.

Hammock Hung (Mosquito Bait) - Ararat Farmstand
Fire Away (Alexia's Pizza Potty Picture) - Belfast, Maine
After having stopped at Ararat Farmstand, a small honor-system establishment, I dropped money into a metal cash box for a bottle of Pellegrino Mineral Water. Sitting at the picnic bench, I surveyed the trees. Several looked suitable for my hammock. I moved quickly and with purpose. Forty-five minutes later, waking from deep sleep, it hit me that I should “Slow Tour”. Pedaling down the road, I began exploring this new mindset. The rule for touring centers on covering 50 to 75+ miles each day. I did this on my last tour down the Pacific Coast; it’s time to try something new. More days on tour, less mileage. At this point, I plan to cut down to twenty-five miles, maximum. This experiment may last for at least a couple of weeks. It’s worth exploring. I have plenty of time to reach Washington, D. C., enough for a summer tour. Call me lackadaisical. Sticks and stones…

Cycling along Megunticook Lake, I felt an overwhelming urge to apply my brakes. After lifting my bike over the guardrail, I brought soap and clean clothing down to the rocky shoreline.

Preparing to Dip - Megunticook Lake
Discreetly slipping everything off, I entered. Perfect temperature! I swam for a spell, then returned to the shore for my soap. Minutes later, the road grime gone, a small fishing boat, trolling the shoreline, put me under some pressure to dry off and get dressed. They had an entertaining view, but it really didn’t bother me too much. As they passed by, I noticed that a woman had her phone out. I hope I’m not on YouTube.

The View - Camden
In Camden, around 6:30 PM, I wheeled into a public park overlooking West Penobscot Bay. A grassy, out-of-the-way spot made for a unique place for my yoga mat. I relaxed my mind and stretched for about forty minutes while periodically looking out at the boats on anchor.

Running out of daylight, I spotted a baseball field on the outskirts of Rockport. Just off the cut grass, a short trail presented itself. I slipped in and found an adequate site for my tent. In no time, I was set up with teeth brushed. I don’t expect to be bothered. Time will tell…

First Selfie (Pedestrian Footbridge) - Belfast, Maine
The Choice (Breakfast Stop) - Bucksport, Maine

Rockport to Pemaquid Pond, Maine – June 23, 2017

Lockup with Dogwood - Waldoboro Public Library
Just let me get something off my chest, it seems that there are very few bicyclists in Maine (at least occupying the short distance that I have ridden). I hope to see more heading south.

I did meet one interesting fellow cyclist today at the Waldoboro Public Library. Martin Gibson is an established musician with an eclectic set of life experiences. We spoke for over an hour about life in Maine, among other things. Later, he went out of his way to show me the location of a nearby grocery store, Hannaford Supermarket. Kindness is easy to find here.

I decided to call it a day after about twenty-five miles. I’m in the process of scaling back. Duck Puddle Campground was suggested on my Adventure Cycle Association map. Pedaling a few miles off my route brought me to the private overnight destination.

Land of Dreams - Duck Puddle Laundry
After a warm shower, and a game of Mrs. Packman, I ran a load of laundry while sipping a Heineken and reading “A Confederacy of Dunces” by John Kennedy Toole. I couldn’t help but laugh out loud as I turned the pages. Laundromats have always held a special place in my heart. The hum of machines, the warm air, the satisfaction of a freshly folded shirt – heaven.

Pyromania - Duck Puddle Campground
Leaving my little slice of paradise for the large, grassy communal area of Duck Puddle, I came upon a roaring bonfire. Thinking there would be less mosquitoes by the heat, I took my grocery store dinner to the fire. It wasn’t long before Ed Sprague sidled up. Interested in my tour, he shared information about a few upcoming events in the area. Ed mentioned that he was planning on walking the Camino de Santiago in October. I shared what I knew about the trip. Buen Camino, Ed!

The mosquitoes thickened, ice rattled at the bottom of his glass and we parted ways, a pleasant ending to a memorable day.

Pemaquid Pond to Thomas Point, Maine – June 24, 2017

Resting (Reading) - Bath, Maine
I met my first two bicycle tourist today while cycling on Old Stage Road west of Bath. They were heading north, taking a break on the side of the road. The young man motioned for me to stop by lifting a bag of gorp (good old raisins and peanuts) skyward. We lightly chatted and chewed.

I was asked if I encountered the rainstorm earlier in the day (they had intelligently waited it out under an awning). I had taken shelter near the trunk of a maple tree, hurriedly throwing on my raincoat. We parted ways with smiles and words of encouragement.

Pedaling into the city of Bath, I was pleased to find an inviting park on the waterfront. I parked my bike, ate and read for over an hour. While seated, I researched local camping spots. Thomas Point Beach Campsite was a short distance out of town. I called and reserved a site.

Scandinavian Magic - Band Camp 2017
Far and Away - Band Camp 2017
Playing with Fire (Burned?) - Band Camp 2017
Upon arrival at Thomas Point, music immediately caught my attention. I had unknowingly stumbled into “Band Camp”, an annual festival featuring exclusively Maine bands. Looking at the poster, I didn’t recognize any of the performers but anticipated a good time. Over the course of the evening I listened to Gorilla Finger Dub, Jaw Gems and Pardon Me, Doug. Neon glow was abundant – slingshot into the air and hula hooped around the waist. One man played with fire. I quietly watched and ate a burrito.

Pardon Me, Doug (Suggestion: Lower Keyboard Volume) - Band Camp 2017
Port a Potty Problem - Band Camp 2017

Thomas Point to Gray, Maine – June 25, 2017

The Garden of Earthly Delights - L. L. Bean Headquarters
I left Thomas Point relatively early this morning, bound for whatever the day had in store. Pulling into Freeport, I entered L. L. Bean’s flagship store. I just scratched the surface, spending most of my time in the camping section.

The amount of goods for sale was astounding. Shoppers, particularly older men, stared deeply into the heart of the summer collection. Others lingered by the brook trout, penned in, but kept alive, below the staircase to the women and children’s section. I left with a lasting memory.

I pulled into Gray at about four o’clock and decided to call it a day. While at the public library (closed), I noticed a suitable camping spot just off the lawn, in the woods. I cleared it of twigs for later, then wheeled into town to find a public park.

Gazebo Setup - Pennell Park, Gray
Gray isn’t large, and Pennell Park presented itself immediately. A gazebo caught my eye near the rear of the space. I quickly unpacked my dew-soaked tent (to dry) and set up my hammock. I spent several hours in the spot, occupying myself with reading, napping and an extensive yoga session. Shorty before eight, I remembered Goody’s Pizza and headed in for a small pie. The owners were closing at eight, but took my order and told me to take my time. They even allowed me to secure my bicycle inside. Pouring over my bike maps, I realized that I’d be leaving Maine in a short number of days, a bittersweet thought.

Goody's Goodness - Gray, Maine
After dinner, I stopped by the large graveyard by Goody’s before heading to my stealth camp behind the public library. The mosquitoes were out in force, which hastened my setup. I pray the bookmobile doesn’t come early.

Those Who Have Gone Before - Gray, Maine

Gray to Kennebunk, Maine – June 26, 2017

Shakespeare Practice (Lafeyette Park) - Kennebunk, Maine
I packed up my stealth camp at around six thirty and hit the road, at least as far as the corner McDonald’s. I use the facilities when, and where, I can find them. The coast is so populated, I have never had to look far.

Safeway is to the west coast as Hannaford’s is to the east. I can enter any store and quickly find what I’m looking for. This is convenient, although I frequently feel like I am in a Twilight Zone episode. There is absolutely NO deviation in the deli options from store to store. Even the muffin flavors are identical. Who is the mastermind behind this distribution system?

I know that there must be a flaw, one special Hannaford item that only presents itself randomly to customers. I have a hunch I’m onto something. Several days ago, I purchased a “Time Savers” package of vegetables. I have not been able to procure this item since, even after asking for it on two different occasions. I am also attuned to the look employees give me when I ask for this particular item. It can only be described as “vacant”. Have I happened upon some sort of key to the Hannaford maze? More later.

Alewife Baptist (Shut)
During the later part of the day I met Simon, the first bicycle tourist going south that I have encountered. He was traveling at an extremely fast clip, wanting to complete the journey to Key West in one month. Simon is deep into his medical school studies, but has found time to indulge himself on this tour. After a brief chat, we exchanged words of encouragement, then continued the route at our own pace.

The Layout - Stadig Campground
I have to confess, I broke my promise to myself and cycled over fifty miles today. Some days, the rhythm of the pedals and ever-changing scenery is too addicting. This was one of those days. I will also admit that I was in search of a campsite with showers. Stadig Mobile Park / Campground, located three miles out of Kennebunk, fit the bill. I’m the only one in the designated tent camping site. Pleasant dreams…

Stadig Fairyland

Kennebunk, Maine to Rye, New Hampshire – June 27, 2017

Atlantic Perch
After taking my time packing up, I headed down highway one and found the Maine Diner. I tried the “Miles Henry Downeast Benedict”. Eggs on codcakes make for an interesting combination, a satisfying meal.

Menu - Maine Diner
Today, I skirted the Atlantic for the better part of the ride. Salt air smells like home. Miles of beautiful view homes were were stacked against the shoreline. Public spaces were few and far between. I sensed old money on the coast of Maine: Wells Beach, Moody Beach, York Beach and Kittery Point.

Salt Air
Along the route, I had the pleasure of stopping by two remarkable libraries, Ogunquit Memorial and Rice Public. I read and pored over my maps in both.

Ogunquit Memorial (Old World View)
Ogunquit Memorial (Interior Perspective)
Ogunquit Memorial (In Miniature)
I entered Rice Public to temporarily take shelter from the lightning and rainstorm that was brewing. The librarian was kind enough to offer a camping spot on her property, but I turned it down after finding out it was five miles off route. What kindness! At closing time, I donned my raingear and continued down the road.

Rice Public Library (Ridin' Out the Storm)
Crossing over into Portsmouth, New Hampshire, in the poring rain left me little time to say goodbye to Maine. I began navigating streets, looking to leave the urban area and find a camping spot along the route. Sometimes, when bicycling, the rain falls so hard that the idiocy of my situation makes me smile. I was smiling when I came upon Rye Elementary.

Freecamp - Rye, New Hampshire
Initially looking for a covered area to wait out the deluge, I recognized a perfect situation for camping. Near the edge of the school, I pushed a short distance into the forest, found a flat spot and set up. I removed wet clothing, climbed in and unpacked my sleeping items. The forecast is good; I’ll dry tomorrow.

Rye to Danville, New Hampshire – June 28, 2017

Drying Out (Charging Up) - Rye Public Library
I woke to rain several times during the night, a soothing sound when tucked into a reliable tent.

Bicycle Repair Stand (Forward Thinking) - Rye Public Library
My sleeping gear on this trip consists of a Big Agnes “Fly Creek” one person tent, a 20 degree Enlightened Equipment quilt, a Thermarest “Prolite Plus” sleeping pad and a Sea to Summit “Aeros Ultralight” inflatable pillow (with custom Seattle Seahawk pillowcase courtesy of Cake Bergquist). This combination is both lightweight and comfortable. I have been sleeping well at night.

Inflate, Rest, Repeat
Custom Cover
Wanting to dry out, I stopped for three hours at the Rye Public Library. I spoke to the librarian about his rock climbing adventures and some programs that he had spearheaded for the community. Knowing it was a wet night, he encouraged me to hang my tent by the outside picnic table to dry; I took him up on it.

While waiting, I charged my phone and read, finishing “A Confederacy of Dunces”. For a few gut-busting laughs, I’d recommend this book. Not wanting to carry the weight of “Confederacy”, I, later, mailed it home, book rate, from the Exeter post office. I had a chance to start “Ready Player One” by Ernest Cline (thanks, Justin). The first chapter set the hook deep.

I finally launched around noon and put some time in on the cycle. On the outskirts of Exeter, I picked up food at Hannaford’s and continued southwest through the beautiful neighborhoods of New Hampshire.

Danville Anvil
One aspect of the east coast that I have not previously mentioned are the expansive lawns that people tend. I constantly pass by exhausted people, some of considerable age, fighting back Mother Nature with weed eaters and mowers. They must be praying to God for the rain to stop. The business to be in here is lawnmower sales, service or lawn care. Currently, it’s nine thirty at night, and, from a distance, I can hear the distinct sound of a local mowing their lawn. I’m willing to bet that, in a few hundred years, lawns will be largely replaced by native plantings.

Rainbow Campground - Danville
Being out of luck again in regards to a campsite, I entered Danville and quickly found a suitable spot on a hill above their public elementary school. Keeping with my “slow tour”, I cycled approximately twenty-five miles today.